April 5

We arrived on a sunny morning in the shadow of Table Mountain. In the US it’s Liberation Day; here, it’s a normal Thursday. Our excursion was a relaxed drive to a winery and visit to the town of Stellenbosch. The setting was great and the wines were good. Stellenbosch is an upscale university and tourist town that could fit in Napa Valley. Everything was great so long as you didn’t look to the sides or under the surface.

As we looked to the sides, we saw what used to be District 6, where Blacks were expelled and their homes destroyed. Then, we saw acres of side by side corrugated shacks where Blacks now live. There are some low income apartments that have been constructed, but the overall impression is shacks and litter. Lots of shacks had satellite dishes which, we were told, are very inexpensive. We talked to two Black women who were employees of the winery. They thought that things are getting better. It appears that Mandela’s party, the African National Union, has struggled and lost some support. Several people have mentioned corruption and ineffective government. Right now the ANU governs with the help of the Democratic Alliance, a “White” party, and progress appears to be slow.

Karla and I have been talking about the vestiges of colonialism. We’ve visited too many countries where western powers established a foothold, capitalized on the resources, and did little to improve the capacity of the indigenous population. Actually, it’s worse because it was not uncommon to enslave the population. Now, they have their independence, but, with little experience, are trying to govern semi-autonomous tribes with multiple languages and minimal governing resources. It makes us want to make the world better….but how? 

In the afternoon Karla wanted to climb Table Mountain. I knew better. Our tour guide advised against it for security reasons. At the time, no one mentioned the baboons that are known to attack single female hikers. Nor did they mention puff adders on the trail. Karla said it was the most difficult thing she has done in 10 years. (I was pleased not to be mentioned, but perhaps living with me is 2nd.) I’ll let Karla provide details.

Karla here: I checked the AllTrails app for the best approach up Table Mountain and identified the Platteklip Gorge to Upper Cable Station hike of 3.3 miles up with about 2500 elevation gain. It was rated hard and I found it very hard– 90 degree heat and a 3pm start did not ease the effort. AllTrails notes that “challenges include steep climbs and high rock steps.” There was very little shade and it was reasonably well traveled. I did hear from a local on the way back down, that I should be looking for puff adders and that adolescent baboons tend to pick on solo female hikers. I heard the baboons calling/hooting but did not see any. Another local hiker, when asked, volunteered that the snakes would not be out in the late cool shade of the day but that they are found along the trail. I miscalculated a bit and it was dark before I finished coming down. Thankfully, I had my cell phone flashlight to guide the way. I’d rate this 2-3x Kokohead. Glad to have done it. Beautiful views and great exercise.

On the second day, we visited the very attractive Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.  Our drive to the gardens missed the township housing. Then, on the drive to a Constantia winery (Groot Constantia), we passed lots of upscale housing and gated communities. We could have passed the day and missed the soft underbelly. Good wine tasting. Five different wines with a piece of chocolate to match each one. It’s easy to see why wine tourism is so important to the economy.

Upon return, we wandered the waterfront a while. There has been lots of development since our trip 20 years ago. It’s a major reason that many people rank Cape Town as one of their favorite cities.

At night, we joined John and Carolyn Soutter for dinner. I have known them since Hilary and their daughter Ann starting swim team 42 years ago. (She may set a New Zealand masters’ swimming record later this year). Our conversation with the Soutters felt like we talked to them yesterday. They are sailing from Cape Town to London….unless evicted from the ship earlier for misbehavior.

I was going to write a piece on apartheid, but a very good lecturer just boarded and gave his first of four apartheid lectures today. I will write a piece later; I want to sound smarter.