Oporto, Portugal

April 29

Having skipped Portimao, it appears that we’ll have more time in Oporto. That’s good because we like it there. We’ve had 2-3 previous visits and enjoyed a Viking river trip on the Douro River. Someone else apparently discovered it before us. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 and in the past 10 years has been chosen Best European Destination, City of the Year, and Leading Seaside Metropolitan Destination. The city has about 250,000 people, but the urban area has close to 1.5 million people. Interestingly, a number of older houses are at risk of collapsing and about 100,000 citizens have moved to the suburbs since 1980. There has been some history of collapses; in 1806, thousands of citizens fled a French invasion and 4000 died when the bridge collapsed under the weight.

Oporto has been a key port since Roman times. In the 14th and 15th centuries it was a center for shipbuilding and Portuguese exploration. In the 18th century, the English established a trading post and developed a specialty of port wines. In fact they established a foothold with port wine cellars; hence the number of port wines with English names. It is now an industrial center, and exports dry fruit, nuts, olive oil, and, of course, port wine. Tourism is a major source of revenue.

We opted to go on a Port tasting excursion which Karla arranged in the afternoon. Our early arrival allowed us to wander around the small city– Leixoes– near the port in the morning. Karla thought that she had been there before. She said, “I think there’s a thrift store on the right on the next street.” There was a thrift store on the right…adding to her credibility. We both got about 10,000 steps before the real day started…actually, she stayed in the town longer and added to her count.

We arrived the day after a nationwide power outage that affected both Portugal and Spain. This was posted at a local gym, cleverly called “I hate Jim.”

A ship shuttle bus took us to a drop off point in Oporto around 11. We stopped at a small, “hidden” restaurant for a salted cod (baccalau) lunch, which was very good. Then a mile walk took us through winding streets and then the active riverfront area. It’s loaded with colorful shops, street stalls, street performers and restaurants. We crossed a bridge to find more of the same before arriving at our tour starting spot an hour early. That gave me a chance to get a nap on an unoccupied spot on a lawn. As I woke up, I was not bothered by overflying birds and dogs walking by, even though the grass had various shades of discoloration.

Our tour leader guided us to 3 port cellars which allowed us a total of 10 tastings. The wine was decent…including some “regular wines.”  It’s hard to make an indecent port. The last port cellar was the most interesting. They are trying to find new markets with products like port ice cream and rose port which can be used for Port fizzes….appealing to the younger set. A good day…..lots of walking, nice port, and a charming city. Everyone should visit Oporto.

Porto restaurant; menu del dia was bacalao with potatoes and onions, vegetable soup, and wine or beer. Karla enjoyed the vinho verde.
Nicolau de Almeida, Quinta Do Monte Xisto, was our first port cellar visit. Second and third: Vasques de Carvalho and Quevedo.
On the Gaia side of the Duoro, across the river from Porto.
These boats used to be used to transport the port barrels. Eiffel built bridge in the background.

Leave a comment