April 18, 19

Macaronesia is a collection of islands about 350-400 miles off the coast of West Africa which are part of the mid-Atlantic range. The islands include the Azores, Canary Islands, Madeira, and Cape Verde. We will be visiting Praia, on the island of Santiago, and Mendolo on Sao Vicente Island….both part of Cape Verde. Then, after 2 sea days, we visit Tenerife of the Canary Islands.

Praia and Mindelo were actually discovered by the Portuguese; there were not settlers prior to their arrival. Following a Portuguese settlement in 1615, the islands became important supply stops for ships going around Africa or traveling to the Americas. Pirates found them useful stopovers as well. When the Suez Canal was constructed in 1869, it saved about 8 1/2 days on voyages to India and the South Seas. Diesel-powered ships added to the speed advantage. Cape Verde lost its advantage. However, World War 2 renewed interest in their strategic location. Both the Germans and Allies competed for ports. Investments by the Allies greatly improved the infrastructure and added shops, restaurants, hospitals and other structures for use by soldiers.

Praia, with about 150,000 people has about 56 percent of the Cape Verde population. The economy is driven by agriculture,  public administration, health care, education and tourism. While 90 percent of their food is imported, Cape Verde exports bananas, coffee and, sugar cane. Tourism represents 37 percent of the economy. Interestingly, the strategic location is also popular with cocaine traffickers as they move their product to the Americas and around Africa. There is double-digit unemployment and informal housing…here called favelas. There is very limited fresh water which limits economic and population growth. Climate change and related droughts are challenges for the future. Fortunately for Praia, the Chinese are there to help. They are constructing a desalination plant, a sports stadium, a university, and a parliament building.

Mindelo had similar gains and losses related to location. It is known for music and colorful architecture and island greenery. The economy depends on fishing, shipping, and tourism. Over 90 percent of the people on Sao Vicente live in Mindelo. 

We had a nice excursion in Praia. Our first stop was a pleasant pedestrian street. It would have been fun to visit without all of the Good Friday closures. We proceeded to a fort which was placed on a strategic hill guarding “Old Town.” Old Town is located on a protected bay that was a focus for traders, ship suppliers, slavers, and pirates.

The short trip from the fort to the town was blocked by a parade of locals. In front was a priest, a Jesus surrogate carrying a cross, two surrogate Roman soldiers walking behind Jesus and whipping him occasionally, Jesus’ mother, Mary, and perhaps 200 citizens walking and reciting. It looked like it could have been from the Middle Ages. Karla was able to get us off the bus to walk with the parade; we said that we would meet the bus in town. A fun experience. The small town had a number of “tourist stalls” and a nice covered restaurant that  provided us with beer. We purchased a couple things, the best of which was a shirt for me that was acquired for a few dollars and an older pair of Karla’s shoes. (She knew about the trade.)

Our experience was positive enough for us to cancel our excursion on Mindelo. We had been here before and there’s a limit to how much time we wanted to spend driving around a barren volcanic island. We recalled an impressive Senegalese market from our previous visit and thought that we would walk there. We passed a nice fish market and then arrived at the African market, finding it about twice the size that we encountered a few years ago (Covid times). It helps that we have downsized and were not interested in purchasing the attractive masks, carvings, clothing etc. A nice visit; we have positive feelings about Cape Verde.